Duplicate stitch for invisible mending

Duplicate stitch, also called Swiss darning, allows you to go back over the knitted stitches with a same color. When you do duplicate stitch carefully, you can’t even tell that the stitches weren’t knit over. It is used mostly for filling up and covering the holes on knit garments and the result is 80 – 90% invisible.

Thread your needle with the right yarn.

1.      insert the needle from the wrong-side to the right-side at the base of the first stitch.

You see the yarn come out the front of the piece.

Back Stitch - what's it good for?

Mending clothes by hand - the back stitch creates a strong seam and can reach awkward, fiddly places that a sewing machine can't. From the right side, the back stitch looks like a straight machine stitch, but the stitches overlap on the wrong side.

·         Working from right to left, insert your needle into the fabric and come back out again, pulling the thread through
·         Re-insert your needle half a centimetre or so to the right of where your needle just came out, and come back out half a centimetre to the left of your first stitch (

·         Continue like this, inserting your needle at the end of your last stitch to the right, and coming out one stitch ahead to your left (figs.3&4)

Blind Catchstitch - what's it good for?

Especially good for hemming, in particular hems that require flexibility or easing in.

·         Press the hem in by 1/4″, and then press in again by 1/2″, or however much or little in order to achieve your desired length

·         Working from left to right, insert your needle inside the fold (fig.1)

·         Make a little stitch in the fabric just below the fold (fig.2)

·         Next make a stitch in the main body of the fabric, moving diagonally down to the right of your first stitch (fig.3) and pull the thread through, keeping it secure but not too tight (fig.4)

·         Moving diagonally up to the right, make another little stitch in the fabric just below the fold (fig.5) followed by another little stitch from the main body of the fabric (fig.6), and so on.

Basic types of Handstitching

Running Stitch - what's it good for?

Good for gathering or ruching fabric to make gathered skirts, basting seams and stay stitching a curved edge to prevent it from stretching. A running stitch looks exactly the same on both sides of the fabric.

·         Working from right to left (or left to right for lefties), insert your needle into the fabric and bring it back out again

·         Now weave your needle in and out of the fabric, keeping the stitches as even and straight as possible (figs.2,3&4)

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2.      follow the line of the stitch and put the needle back in at the top of the stitch.

That is, in the row above the stitch that you’re duplicating.

3.      go under the full stitch (two legs) in the row above.

Bring the needle back out to the right side.

4.      put the needle back in where you came out.This location is at the bottom of the stitch.

​5.      go under one full stitch (two legs) in the row below the stitch you’re duplicating, and then bring the needle back out to the front.
Follow Steps 3-6 for each stitch that you want to duplicate

Blind Slipstitch - what's it good for?

This is completely invisible stitch that is perfect for pretty much anything - from basic hemming to finishing the inside of a waistband, à la Charlotte Skirt, finishing raw edges of a bodice lining as in the Elisalex Dress and finishing the sleeveless armhole of the Victoria Blazer.

·         Insert your needle through the folded edge (fig.1) and pull the thread through

·         Pick up a couple of threads from the fabric directly underneath the point where your needle just came out (fig.2) and pull the thread though (fig.3)

·         Reinsert the needle into the pressed edge of the fabric directly above the point at which your needle just came out (fig.4). Using the pressed fold as a guide, slide the needle an centimetre or so along inside the fold and then come out again (fig.5)

·         Keep repeating figs. 2 - 5 along the entire length and securely knot off your stitching at the end.